I was born and raised in the “borscht belt” of Los Angeles. I graduated from Fairfax High School, just steps away from one of the more famous deli’s in the United States – Cantor’s -. It is impossible to tell you how many times I ate at Cantor’s; and even now I frequently have them send me some of their raisin pumpernickel bread.
When we moved to San Diego in 1966, the only Jewish Deli around was “Ross-Sands”, located in the old Sav-On shopping center off of Rosecrans in Pt. Loma. When they closed, it left an emptiness of traditional deli’s for quite some time, even though one of the sons – Myron Ross – went to work at the deli at Fed Mart for a few years. (Interesting to note that Myron is now a musician, having played for George Gobel, Buddy Greco, Andrew Sisters, Kay Starr, and many Las Vegas type shows, Ben Blue Review, Frank Sinatra Jr., Frankie Laine, Earl Grant, Tommy Noonan, Jane Russell, Connie Francis, etc. He has lost most of his vision but still continues to play and draw crowds.)
For a long time, there was not a deli of any quality in San Diego until 1980 when Debi and Zvike Akin decided to move from Los Angeles to our area and open up a restaurant for “starved delicatessen lovers.” They were committed to using good old fashioned recipes and worked many long hours in making their restaurant a success.
I remember the first time I went to “D.Z.’s”; it was in a very small shopping center between College Drive and 70th Street on Alvarado Drive. The seating area was limited, and almost from the beginning people stood in line for breakfast, lunch, and/or dinner. Debi sat at the hostess desk just inside the door, and pretty much seated all the diners herself. Gradually, over the years, the businesses on either side of the deli closed down and Debi and Zvike took them over. The restaurant today is large; always filled; and boasts a deli counter, a bakery, and a gift shop in addition to the restaurant. All of the items are made fresh and they have some of the greatest dill pickles in town.
Having a coupon from “Living Social” I asked my friend Reuven if he would like to join me for a meal today. He agreed it would be fun, and so we met at 11:00am – before the lunch crowd and after the breakfast crowd and were seated immediately. Reuven and I share a similar background so it was no surprise that we both ordered the same thing – a bowl of Matzo Ball soup and we shared a Chopped Liver Appetizer with fresh Rye bread. We both ordered Ice Tea.
As we were reading over the extensive menu – pages long – I mentioned to Reuven that the “pickle jar” was missing from our table. Without saying anything to our waitress Jenn, she arrived at the table carrying an enormous jug of dill pickles, and we could hardly wait until she left the table so we could “dig in.”
I am sure that my critics will have something to say about my review of the soup. In fact, I am sure that my daughter, who had been at D.Z.’s the night before for some “Jewish Penicillin” because she was feeling ill, will also disagree, but I was disappointed this time. It was served with cooked carrots, that were cooked perfectly but lacked taste; thin noodles that also had no flavor; and the matzo ball, although light and fluffy, needed seasoning as well. There was no evidence of chicken, nor was there any chicken flavor. I imagine I could have – should have – added a little salt to the soup, but I didn’t and although I finished the carrots and matzo ball, I left much of the broth.
The Chopped Liver Appetizer plate was beautiful to behold: (I have to confess that the picture attached is a “recreation” of the actual platter, because we had already begun to eat it before I remembered to take the picture. I made the picture up from the leftovers that we took home.) There were many cucumber slices; many sliced carrots; and many more tomatoes.
All in all, the Chopped Liver was good. I would have liked to have a few more onions mixed in with the finished product, and I add hard boiled eggs to mine but I was not the chef and was happy with what I was served. It was moist and there was a lot of it.
The service was good; Reuven had to ask for a refill of his ice tea, but we had already had 2 refills during our meal. Jenn was personable and friendly, which only added to our enjoyment.
This meal, though, was, in my mind, rather pricey. The two bowls of matzo ball soup – it only comes in one size – were $6.95 each; the chopped liver appetizer was $10.95 and the two tea’s were $2.95 each for a total of almost $34. That, coupled with the tip, cost us close to $40, a rather hefty amount for lunch in my opinion. If we had each had a sandwich and ice tea the total amount would have been pretty much the same price. With the economy what it is, it is surprising to find that almost every table was filled and there was a waiting line for our table. I was glad we had a discount coupon.
(Just a quick word about the other well known deli in San Diego county. That is Milton’s deli in Del Mar. They didn’t open until 1995, and they are as pricey – if not more so – than D.Z.’s. Their menu is similar to D.Z.’s and they also offer a deli and a bakery.)
Going out to lunch at either of the San Diego deli’s is not an economic move, but it does satisfy!
D.Z. Akins
6930 Alvarado Rd.
San Diego, CA 92120
619-265-0218
Judi Curry
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Well, have not been at DZ in years. It used to be favorite of Dad. Though I gotta say, due to food allergies these days I prefer Thai. It is safe.
Judi, I grew up on Canter’s Deli! Even though over the years that I still lived in LA, I found that Brent’s Deli in Northridge, just blocks from my house in the Valley was WAY better. But no one, and I mean no one, can beat the bakery goods at Canters. It’s the first place I load up on when I go back up to LA. Btw, Brent’s Deli still scores higher than Canters in the Zagat Guide.
I too bought the Living Social deal for DZ Akins, but have yet to use it, and have never been there. Not sure I can get anyone to go with me, but sounds like I could spend that coupon all on my own! Delis have never been an inexpensive meal out.
Jillian, my favorite sandwich is their hot pastrami and chopped liver. I’ve enjoyed them for years. This time I was disappointed. Funny, I told me daughter that she would not be pleased with the review, and she mentioned that when she had been there the night before she found herself adding salt and pepper to her meal. But….lest I be strung up by the sausages, it was still good.
Mercy, I don’t know Brent’s deli, but I never spent time in the Valley. In fact, as a youth growing up, the valley wasn’t even there – at first. But to ditch a 4th period class and go to Cantor’s was the norm. (Perhaps that is why I dropped out of school at 16!)
D.Z. Akins has been a family favorite for years! At every party we have had over the years, they have supplied the food right down to the desserts, and no one has EVER complained- In fact, everyone I know LOVES their food!
My favorite is hot pastrami on an onion roll, with plenty of house mustard!
We’ve been going to D. Z. Akin’s for years and have introduced many locals and guests to the fabulouls menu. If you check out their traditional collection of “deli photos,” you’ll find all kinds of local and national names. In all fairness, I have to make a couple of asides – as we came to San Diego in 1966, too. The target was SDSU (then SDSC) and the local deli was Manny’s Deli on College Avenue & El Cajon Boulevard. Small store with lines out the door! Today, there’s another good deli with two locations – Elija’s – it’s nearly as “pricey,” the food is comparable, and both should recognize a little less food could lower the prices!
Never underestimate the the need for a deli fix. My Beloved and I moved from Pittsburgh PA to Key West Florida and became friends with transplants from NYC. We would drive 120 miles each way to Miami Beach on the mainland for the pickles, the fresser, the bagels. I think the restaurant was called Pumpernicks. It was heaven.
When we moved to San Diego 33 years ago, we would go to a deli on El Cajon. I thought it was called Blummers, but can’t find it on Google.
We found City Deli in Hillcrest and then DZ Akins. DZ Akins has been the closest to our experiences at Cantor’s in Oakland and the delis in Squirrel Hill, including the long gone Gazebo and their incredible Reuben sandwiches.
And you are right Judi- DZ Akins is spendy which is why we don’t go there as often as we probably would. But I am glad they are there, and consistently enjoy soup and a half sandwich.
You are right, Anna. Blummers was on El Cajon for a long time. City Deli is only so-so, at least to my palate. Reuven was looking for the soup and 1/2 sandwich but did not see it on the menu. I know it is there because I have had it many times, but for some reason it alluded us this time. But…like you, I am glad it is there.
I love a good Reuben sandwich, and D Z Akins makes one of the best I’ve had. I love their potato salad, too. It is pricey, but a great place for an occasional splurge to get my Reuben fix.
What about Bloomers Deli and Bakery on El Cajon Blvd. at 54th Street ?
That place was there for AGES (during the 1960’s and 1970’s).
San DIego has always had some Jewish delis.
Bloomers hasn’t been there for years.
Food quality was good, however, the portion size for the price was inadequate. No way the “Ted Leitner” is worth $14.50. Should be priced $9.95 and the sides are a rip off. The bill came to $28.00 for a undersized, but quality deli-sandwich, with 2 sides & a coke. No wonder half of America is broke – at these prices.
Will not be going back!
Growing up in San Diego we always ate at Ross Sands deli. My grandfather and dad owned them.My grandfather was Ed Ross and my dad was Leo Sands. My uncles Myron, Richard and my mom Joanne and my grandmother Peral were all part of the family business.
Ah Harry. Loved Ross Sands. I spent many a pretty penny at their Deli. When they closed down I was heart-broken, and when Myron went to Walmart? White Front? – don’t remember which one, I followed him there too. The family was like my family.