By Ishmael von Heidrick-Barnes
SURFING LESSONS
For Greta
Meditate on ocean
before hitting surf
let the break find you
Calculate the interval
between sets
Keep your stick
pointed toward breakers
when paddling out
Yield
to the first surfer
sliding down lip
Keep a vigilant eye out
for swimmers straying into the zone
Never panic
stay with the flow
Expect
wipeouts
Give your body time
to forget the board
saltwater is the stuff
human beings are made of
the big one is barreling inside you
No matter how large or small the crest
every ride is different
enjoy them all
Look for the day
you kick out of a wave
break the barrier
between sea and sky
Good timing, and, as Miki Dora said (I know, I heard him say it),
“Some of these waves may be thousands of years old.”